325i or 325is - What's the difference?

[KevinA]

Honest question really. I'm very interested in getting a 90 or 91 325 in a few months time and am on a fact-finding mission. What are the differences? What are the problem areas?

[bmw325is]

The 325i is the nonn sport edition. The 325is comes with heavier swaybars more sporty seats, and i think a few more things that i can't think of right now.

[Ryan Stewart]

Ground effects, rear spoiler, maplight?, M-tec steering wheel (if non-airbag), sport seats, premium soundsystem, better wheels, leather?, painted mirrors, and springs (no sways, only M got different sways).

Heated seats and mirrors may have been standard to, cant remember.

[Ryan Stewart]

Oh, and the only problem area on these cars are timing belts. Driveline vibration can be an expensive, but not always.

Plan on spending thousands on performance mods, you wont be able to help it.

[bmw325is]

You sure there weren't heavier sways?

[KevinA]

I like what I hear about the 'is' - hope I can find one when the time comes.

[Ryan Stewart]

no sways. the M3 got a stiffer front sway and a softer rear sway.

Personally it doesnt really matter, in many cases the 's' models are nt really much lower or stiffer. If you get one I would get an 's' model because it comes with all the options, and a LSD.

You will most likely replace the suspension if it really matters to you, there are soo many great aftermarket kits for this car.

[randywalters]

Honest question really. I'm very interested in getting a 90 or 91 325 in a few months time and am on a fact-finding mission. What are the differences? What are the problem areas?

There was no 91 325is, but you were able to order a 91 325i with a Sport Package that made it virtually identical to the 90 325is. Both these years had the airbag steering wheel, but i assume you know that cause they're the only two years you're looking at. A lot of the items that were standard on the 325is were available as as options on the 90 and 91 325i so its possible to find one of these nicely optioned cars.

At least with a real 325is you automatically get all the goodies :-)


Standard equipment on the 5-speed E30 325is
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Limited Slip Differential (3.73 ratio, except 89-90 automatics have a 4.10)
Slightly Stiffer Front Springs (but rears are same as 325i)
Slightly Stiffer Shocks
14x6½" ET30 BBS Cross-Spoke Wheels
Foglights in the airdam (the 88-91 325i also had these)
Deeper Front chin spoiler extension (88-90)
Rear Decklid Spoiler
Bolstered Leather Sport Seats
3-Spoke M3 Steering Wheel up till and including the '89
Leather Airbag wheel on all '90 and up E30s
Trip Computer (OBC)
Premium Stereo System
Trunk-mounted amplifier
Power Windows
Power Sunroof
Power Mirrors


Items shared by both the 325i and 325is sedans:
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Same 6-cyl 2.5L Engine (168hp, 164 lbs-ft torque)
Same Transmissions (5-spd or automatic)
Same Dual Exhaust system
Same Fuel Injection system
Same Ignition system
Same Oil Cooler
Same Brakes and ABS system
Same front and rear swaybars (20mm front, 12mm rear)
Same rear springs

Randy
89 325is

[randywalters]

What are the problem areas?

Off the top of my head, a complete documented service history is of primary importance. The timing belt should have been replaced every 50K to 60K at most, this is the most important thing about owning (and buying) any 6 cylinder E30. Look for a shredded flex disc where the driveshaft attaches to the transmission, look for evidence of tranny leaks, engine leaks, final drive leaks etc. It's normal to have an old dry powdery coating on the underside of all this stuff but nothing wet or excessively leaking. The rear crossmember bushings and trailing arm bushings are usually due for replacement around 100K to 150K, and the front control arm bushings as well. Look for rust in all the usual places if the car has lived in a wet or snowy environment. Make sure all the electrical goodies work. See if the car was loved, or taken for granted. All the body panels have an original sticker with the VIN# - make sure all these are present and that they match (fenders, hood, doors, trunk).

Parts for these cars are actually not expensive and they're easy to work on. Expect to put some money into the car since things are about due by now. They're pretty sturdy little beasts :-)

Others will add what i have missed...

.

[SilverE30]

I can only tell you the problems I've encountered with my car (1990 325i). Valve chatter- I would recommend getting a valve adjustment, that should quiet it down a bit. The shifter may be a bit sloppy, please refer to: http://www.eskimo.com/~dalus/bmw/bmw_e30.html, there's a lot of good R & R info there. On my car the A/C worked fine but eventually ran low on freon. Just recently a resistor pack went out on my blower motor, so now the fan only works on '4'. Not to mention the light behind the fan controls hasn't worked since I purchased the car 2 years ago. I needed to replace my suspension and rear mounts, as with most E30's you'll find. Watch out for water in the trunk and rust, especially under your sun roof. A lot of seals/gaskets may need to be replaced, as with my car (diff seals, trans seal w/ mounts & guibo, valve cover gasket). Seats...the seatback frame may be broken at the weld. If it looks as if the seats look like they lean towards the centre console, you know what the problem is. Hmmmm, I can't really think of anything else at this point. If I've missed anything, I'm sure some of the other members can pick up where I left off.

Conrad

[peteyg]

On mine, I replaced the suspension and control arm bushings, tranny mounts, engine mounts, driveshaft flex disk, and tie rod ends. I replaced the timing belt as soon as I got the car, just because I couldn't determine when the last time it had been done. Seemed like good insurance. At that time I also replaced the water pump, thermostat, and all belts and hoses.

The two biggest issues I've had with the car have been vibrations and irritating electrical issues with the main gauge cluster and power window switches. I have eliminated 95% of the vibrations through the replacement of deteriorated rubber mounts and bushings, and I tried every trick in the book to get the cluster working properly. I reflowed every single solder joint in the cluster, twice. That eliminated every problem except the bouncing speedo. Next up is the speed sender.

Overall, after having the car for about 3 years, I have to say it is a rugged machine. It takes a lot of abuse, and as was mentioned, parts are cheap and readily available. You should be very comfortable working on your own cars, and own a good set of tools. You'll be using them. And buy the Bently manual. Absolutely the best investment I made in my E30.

You will encounter all of these issues, btw, on ANY 18 year old car. I fixed pretty much the same list on my '90 Ford Bronco. When I got it, I had to catch up on 10 years of neglected maintenance. Of course, I got it really cheap, and now it runs and drives quite well. It is simply amazing how most car owners will only change their oil and feel that they have properly maintained their cars.

[MR 325]

Wow, this thread was 2 and a half years old until you posted...

[peteyg]

EDIT: Someone linked to this thread in another post, and I hit reply without looking at the original post date. oh well.

[dawgeatdawg]

Haha that's funny...i wonder if that guy is still looking